Saturday, December 28, 2013

BALI SOCIAL ETIQUETTE


What many people don't realize is that Bali social etiquette is so much more complex than merely wearing a sarong to the temple. Having lived here for a while I've come to discover the how everything you do here is dictated and judged by the multifaceted unspoken rules of Balinese social etiquette. It's this etiquette, that varies from village to village, which dictates everything from what is appropriate to bring or wear to social functions and how it's presented to how you are expected to behave, to your expected role in the family and community.

The good news is that as a visitor to Bali, you are not expected to know, understand or adhere to all the rules that you would be expected to abide by if you were Balinese (or the spouse of a Balinese).

These are a few things, however that you should be aware of that I've categorized under the following headings: Attire Etiquette, Ceremony and Temple Etiquette, Market Etiquette and Everyday Social Interaction Etiquette.

ATTIRE ETIQUETTE

When it comes to attire, for any ceremony you attend or temple visit, both men and women are expected to be properly attired in a sarong and 'selendang', or belt, which is pretty much just like a long scarf, tied around the waist. Sarongs and selendangs are worn differently for men and women, so if in doubt, ask someone to help you put it on. If you have a design on your sarong, make sure the flowers or animals are facing the right way. No one will tell you, but they'll have a chuckle with their friends about the tourist that's wearing the sarong upside down. You should also make sure that you are covering your shoulders, i.e. singlets are not appropriate, but a t-shirt is okay.

As Bali is predominantly Hindu, casual and beach wear is fine on the beach. Bikinis are not an issue and shirtless guys in board shorts are the norm. Though it was not that long ago that Balinese women used to walk around topless, tourists going topless on the beach is a no-no. If you do decide to go topless, it's unlikely that anyone will say anything, but just trust me when I say that it's just not cool. That's over an above the fact that everyone here has a mobile phone and you will no doubt have your photo sms'd to everyone and their friends, then most likely posted to the Internet.

When you are not on the beach, you should be wearing something that at least covers your ass and cleavage. Use some common sense - would you go to the mall in your bathing suit or sit down to dinner in a restaurant with no shirt on at home? I'm not sure why people seem to think that's okay here. Out on the streets, shorts and t-shirts are fine. Singlets are okay, too. The only time that you really need to be more formally dressed is when entering government offices, like immigration. You should be wearing long pants or a skirt, a top that covers your shoulders and shoes or proper sandals - flip flops (or thongs for you Aussies) are not acceptable. You may even be turned away from the office and refused service if you are not dressed appropriately.

I shouldn't have to tell you this, but I've seen it too many times so, I figured it was worth a mention. As motorbikes are a common form of transport, it's considered bad form to hike up your skirt to straddle a motorbike. It should also go without saying that you shouldn't be wearing a mini skirt on a motorbike. It's not so much a Balinese thing as they don't often wear mini skirts, but flashing your crotch in public is not cool anywhere, last time I checked. Female motorbike passengers in skirts and sarongs are expected to ride side-saddle. It's not really that safe, so best stick to wearing pants or shorts if riding a motorbike is part of your planned activities.

TEMPLES AND CEREMONY ETIQUETTE

Apart from donning the appropriate attire when visiting temples or attending a ceremony, there are a few other things you should know. You are not welcome to enter a family temple, unless you are part of that family or are personally invited by a member of that family. Some village temples are only open to those who are registered as living in that village. Even if you move to Bali, and even if you are registered at the village office and Hindu, to become eligible to be a temple 'member', you would be expected to not only partake in temple ceremonies, make offerings and donations, you are expected to be an active member and must participate in temple 'gotong royong', or group projects, like decorating for ceremonies or helping with temple renovations. Some other village temples, on the other hand, welcome visitors. Always ask for permission before entering a temple.

For those temples that do welcome visitors, it's always better to go with a guide as some temple areas are sacred and off limits to everyone except the high priest or priestess. Depending on the temple and the village, entering an area that you are not supposed to go, or even sitting or standing on an area reserved strictly for offerings only, may mean a cleansing ceremony would have to be performed, so you want to make sure that you know where you can and cannot go.

The more significant temples in Bali that are often visited by tourists usually have booths set up outside with ready made offerings you can buy and take in with you, if you want to make an offering. But do not feel obliged. For the temples that do welcome visitors, you are allowed to go in and look around, but again, it's better to go in with a guide, so not only can he instruct you where you are allowed to go, but will also be able to give you the history of the temple, explain proceedings and answer questions. Some of the larger temples have their own guides that must accompany you if you want to enter, so even if you have a guide with you, you may be required to enter the temple with a guide who works for the temple. This falls under the Balinese village/tourism etiquette among the Balinese that they need to adhere to.

It's standard to not only tip your temple guide, but also offer a small donation to the temple. The temple donation is up to you, but a donation of Rp. 10,000 or more is acceptable. Donation to your temple guide is up to you and should be determined by what kind of experience your guide provides but a Rp.10,000 tip or more is acceptable for the temple guide as well.

Different villages have different social etiquette in terms of not only what you should bring to a ceremony at someone's house, but also how it's presented. One thing that is always appropriate and accepted, is money. Whether you've been invited to a wedding, 3-month ceremony or funeral, a plain envellope with Rp. 50,000 - Rp. 100,000 will suffice.

Canang Sari are the small, colourful, daily offerings you see everywhere and usually having you hopscotching down the sidewalks to avoid treading on them. The importance of the twice daily ritual is the ritual itself. Once it's been performed, the offerings have been 'spent' and just end up getting swept up to make way for the next offering, if they are not run over by cars or eaten by dogs or chickens first. So if you inadvertently kick, step on or drive over them with your bicycle, you're not going to Hindu hell for sacrilege, no worries.

MARKET ETIQUETTE

You will most likely find yourself having to bargain for something at some point while you are in Bali. I am often asked how much should be paid for things that don't have a price tag. It may depend on what you are buying, but generally when bargaining at the market, offer 50% of the starting price offered to you. The first price offered is often used to test you to see how much you are willing to spend.

Don't look too interested in anything in particular. If you see something you simply MUST have, choose a few random things and, ask for a price, then ask about the item you really want. Say you're just looking around. If you are looking to get a good price, don't buy anything in the first place you go. Shop around and compare. You can always go back to a place you visited before, but now that you've asked around, you'll have a better idea of what you should be paying. And now you can use: "the lady over there offered me 'this much' for the same thing," as bargaining leverage.

Bargaining is not for the faint of heart. You need to be able to say no thanks, and walk out. Do not fall for the ''please, my baby not eat today''. Do not let someone try to emotionally blackmail or bully you into buying something with aggressive tactics. If someone is too pushy, there will be a hundred other places that sell the same thing. Just walk out. As you do, they will call out after you and offer whatever you were interested in for a fraction of the price they initially offered you. This is also good way to find out how much you should be expecting to pay for something.

Most westerners hate having to bargain for things because it's not a common part of western culture. But there are those who love to the thrill of the process. Just a note... I consider it in very poor taste to try to bargain someone down to 'local' price. For one, you are not a local. The average salary where you're from is probably not $5 a day. And secondly, despite what some might think, it doesn't score you any brownie points with the locals, nor do they think you are clever - just a cheap ass. If you think the seller is asking way too much for something than sure, bargain down but remember they need to be making a profit as well.

The above tips are just some suggested guidelines. At the end of the day, you can ignore everything I said and just use the rule of thumb that if you are okay with a price, than that's the price you should be paying. Maybe you could have bargained a bit more and saved yourself Rp. 20,000 (about $2). But just remember - that Rp. 20,000 is worth much more to a Balinese person than it is to you. Ask yourself: Am I happy paying this price for what I am getting? Am I paying a fraction of what I would pay if I bought this at home? or, Am I getting something totally unique that I couldn't find anywhere else? If you answered yes to the above, than that's the price you should be paying.

EVERYDAY SOCIAL INTERACTION ETIQUETTE

THE RIGHT HAND - Using your right hand is important whenever giving anything to or receiving anything from someone. It's just the polite thing to do. Using both hands is also acceptable, but using your left hand only is considered rude among all Indonesians, not just the Balinese. Of course people here do realize that you come from a different culture and if you are using your left hand, they probably won't take offense, but will most likely appreciate your efforts if you do use your right hand instead.

KEEP YOUR EMOTIONS IN CHECK - One of the most important Balinese rules of etiquette is to not lose face or do anything to cause someone else to lose face in front of others. So any public display of emotion, whether it be anger, jealousy or love, are considered impolite. You will never see Balinese kissing or making overt sexual gestures in public. In fact, kissing in public in Indonesia carries a Rp.5,000,000 fine, though I've never heard of it actually being enforced. Fighting or having arguments in public is also not good etiquette. Family or relationship issues are to be resolved in private, behind closed doors. You don't 'air your dirty laundry in public'. The island of a million smiles is exactly that because regardless of what's going on, you are expected to put your best face forward and sort yourself out in private. Public displays of drunkenness, as long as it's not aggressive or violent is somewhat more accepted, but only if everyone else you are with is also drinking, and depending on where you are, but this only applies for men. Balinese women don't generally drink alcohol (or smoke) here, so being drunk in public if you are female is really not very well looked upon.

MALE & FEMALE INTERACTION - Gender roles are much more clearly defined here. Males and females don't generally tend to interact socially. Whether it be out on the street or at someone's wedding, the women all sit together and talk, the men all sit together and drink. Although I really should be with the women, I tend to hang out with the guys a lot more, cashing in on my 'bule' trump card at social gatherings. That having been said, I wouldn't be hanging and drinking with the guys unless my husband is also there. To do that would be insulting my husband and would make him lose face (god forbid!)

One of the most important things about Balinese culture you really need to understand is that 'good girls' don't go to bars and talk to strangers of the opposite sex. Whereas this would be totally normal social behaviour where I come from, it's simple not done here.

Generally, single Balinese girls who hang out at the bar are usually prostitutes and are only there for one reason. For all you guys that spot that cute Balinese girl that seems to take a shine to you and pours you beer all night, chances are you're not getting lucky, she will probably expect payment.

The Balinese guys who live in the tourist areas are used to meeting lots of foreign girls with a much more relaxed sense of social decorum, who are out to have a 'good time', which is socially unacceptable here for Balinese women.

So if you are female and just out at the bar and happen to meet an Indonesian guy and strike up a friendly, social conversation, it is then natural for the Balinese guy to be expecting something at the end of the night. Be careful about how you conduct yourself in public if you are a single female travelling alone. A night of what you thought was just a friendly conversation, could end in a very awkward clash of cultures if you are not very clear about your intentions. If you are female, do NOT invite a guy back to your hotel unless you are also looking for a 'good time', which by the way, is technically illegal - girls and guys who are unmarried are not allowed to stay in the same room anywhere in Indonesia. That coupled with the fact that there are, last time I checked, over 3000 documented cases of AIDS in Bali is all the more reason to be very careful. Not to mention all the other sexually transmitted diseases, which are much more prevalent in countries in which sexual education is not taught, the awareness isn't there, people being pretty much clueless in terms transmission of these diseases and the whole culture of not 'losing face' which has people more likely trying to hide their afflictions than getting treatment. Having a 'good time' in Bali may have you coming home with a different kind of souvenir you hadn't planned on. The 'vacation mentality' has people letting their guard down and often has them do things that are out of character. Nothing wrong with letting your hair down once in a while, but be safe! This applies to everything you do here, like renting a motorbike in Bali (did you know the #1 cause of death of foreigners in Bali is motorbike accidents?), but I'll save that for another blog.

DON'T GET YOUR PANTIES IN A BUNCH - It's not just important to know how not to breach social etiquette, but it's also important to also know what is not considered impolite, which may be considered rude in your own culture, so you don't think someone is being rude or insulting you when they are not.

One of the things that took me a very long time to get used to, was people calling me fat. Kadek would introduce me to someone new and they'd either say to him: "Oh, gemuk sehat!" (fat & healthy!) and give him the thumbs up. Or they would occasionally look at me and say: "You fat, yes?" It was a while before I realized that 'fat' does not carry the negative connotations that I am used to it being associated with. Fat is used to describe a body type that's not skinny. It's not used as an insult, though it states the obvious that I really don't think is necessary, but the Balinese really seem to like to point it out regardless. It's also taken me a while to get over people calling out to me from their store: "come into my shop - we have big size for you!" If you are anything other than a size small, prepare yourself for someone to comment on your 'fatness'.

There will also be questions that people will ask you that may seem personal or would be considered rude in western countries, that are relatively normal here. What's your religion? How old are you? Why don't you have children? These are generally questions that you wouldn't ask someone you just met, but these are perfectly normal here. But sometimes if you are entertaining a conversation, people can get cheeky and start asking things like "How much money do you make?" Some questions are rude in any culture. If you find people's over curious fascination with you pushing the limits of your personal boundaries, you don't have to answer any question you don't feel comfortable answering, regardless of whether or not it's normal here. Just use your own instincts to decide.

POLITICAL CORRECTNESS DOESN'T EXIST HERE - The subtle nuances of political correctness get lost in translation. The first time I met our friend who introduced his son, severely affected by cerebral palsy, said: "This is my son. He is idiot." It shocked me for a moment until I realized that that was the only word he knew in English. He loves his son, takes him everywhere and is proud of him. He is a great father and if he were fluent in English, "idiot" probably wouldn't have been the word he'd have used to explain his son's disability. I've also heard Balinese people refer to a black person as "a negro" with absolutely no insult intended. So relax and don't get too worked up over someone not using the politically correct term for something. It's a language issue, not an insult.

TAKING PHOTOS - Taking photos is usually no problem. Whether it be a temple celebration or a cremation procession, or just someone walking down the street, people are usually happy for you to take their photo. If you are taking a photo of a specific person, it's much more polite to ask for permission first - 99% of the time they will say 'yes'. There has only been one instance where I was told 'no' when I asked a woman selling fish at a market if I could take her photo. I was thinking that with all the surrounding colourful fruits and vegetables would make for great composition. She was probably thinking, I've been here since 4am, I am tired, I smell like fish, I need a shower and feel like crap. Now that I think about it, I wouldn't have wanted someone to take my photo if I'd have been her, either.

I hope this sheds some light on Balinese social etiquette. If you have any questions that have not been answered in this blog posting, feel free to comment here or join our Bali Retreat Planning group on Facebook and throw a question out to the forum and I will be glad to throw in my 2 cents, or 200 rupiah.

Saturday, December 21, 2013

CHOOSING THE RIGHT LOCATION FOR YOUR BALI RETREAT

One of the biggest factors to consider when planning a retreat in Bali is the location. The island of Bali is as diverse as it is rich in culture. Every part of the island has something unique to offer. The location that is right for your retreat will really depend on the experience you want to create. 

Ideally, what you are going to want to do is choose a location that will not only host your retreat, but enhance the experience, so it's important to know which areas will complement and contribute to your workshop itinerary.

Looking at the different areas, I will attempt to break them down and we'll take a look at what each of these locations has to offer in terms of activities, setting, pros and cons of each and which areas would suit different retreat groups. Now if I've learned anything, it's that every retreat is different and what may be the perfect location for one retreat and its participants, may not necessarily suit another.


IN AND AROUND UBUD
 
The Javanese Hindu priest Rsi Marhandya came to Bali in the eighth century and meditated at the convergence of the two Wos rivers at Campuan. At this time the area was a centre of natural medicine and healing. 'Ubad' is ancient Balinese for 'medicine' and consequently how the name Ubud originated.

In the 1930s, foreign artists were encouraged by the royal family to take up residence in the town. It wasn’t until the 1960s that intrepid travelers started coming to Ubud. In the last two decades, Ubud became the place people would go “up north” to escape the south to a still relatively undeveloped village, rich in culture, home to the Balinese royal family and with a growing expat population of writers, artists and poets.
In recent years Ubud has developed rapidly into a high profile, international destination, especially since the whole 'Eat, Pray, Love' phenomenon. While it still is regarded as the cultural and creative heart of Bali, and definitely has a dynamic unique unto itself, it is no longer what you can consider 'off the beaten track'. The current infrastructure is straining with the influx to what has now become a heavily travelled tourist destination.

Ubud has also become the virtual mecca of yoga and wellness retreats in recent years. And hence there is no shortage of retreat centres and facilities available to cater to them. With such a growth spurt, also comes the amenities and services that are not available in other areas outside of Southern Bali.

Is Ubud right for your retreat? I was going to list Pros & Cons of each area, but what may be a ''pro'' for one retreat, may be a "con" for another, so I will just list a few facts about each area and you can decide whether this information is going to be enhance or take away from the experience you are trying to create.

THINGS TO CONSIDER ABOUT UBUD

Ubud is a destination that will give you the feeling of being away from it all while at your venue, most of which are designed to be a haven amongst the hectic outside goings-on, but is still close to shopping, restaurants, bank machines and other amenities.

Ubud has developed into a destination known for organic, vegetarian food. Most venues can cater to food preferences because they have access to ingredients that you may not find in other parts of Bali.

Ubud prides itself on being known as the 'cultural heart of Bali' so there is an extensive range of Balinese cultural performances to choose from. There are also lots of Balinese craft classes available, from silver smithing, mask painting and Balinese dance, to weaving, batik making and traditional painting, to name a few.

As Ubud has developed into a popular tourist destination, it sometimes can feel like you are walking through a Universal Studio Balinese theme park. You can see the kids in the Barong costume every day, daily shows and performances are run for the benefit of the tourists and and it doesn't seem like there are any Balinese people actually living in Ubud. The ones you do encounter will be lined on the side walks passing out flyers for tonight's dinner and dance show or asking if you want transport, every 10 meters.

There is also almost no local food to be had anywhere in the centre of town, unless you really know where to look. All food carts and street vendors have been banned.

When the village of Ubud was first designed and laid out, it was a lot less travelled back then. Most of the streets that go through Ubud are one way and due to the exploding population, not only from tourists and foreign expats now living there, but also Balinese from other areas coming to Ubud to find work, traffic is totally congested almost all the time. Should you be trying to find a place in the centre of town and you're travelling by car, you'd better not miss it, otherwise you'll have to go all the way around again, which could take you almost an hour, depending on the time of day.

That having been said, there are areas just outside of Ubud, away from the hustle and bustle of the centre of town that provide a much more relaxed atmosphere, but still a just 10-20 minute drive into town.

Ubud is also famous for its natural topography of rolling hills, lots of green space and of course the rice terraces. Located at a higher elevation than the low lying areas of the island, the temperature can be a bit cooler as well. It also has its own weather which consists of a lot of heavy rains during the rainy season, which is one of the reasons it's so green!

SOUTH BALI


South Bali is often called the 'Australian Carribean'. With Australia's close proximity to Bali and cheap flights, south Bali is your typical tropical holiday locale for those looking to get away, enjoy the sand, surf, parties and discos. With the exchange, a weekend in Bali can be more cost effective for those in northern Australia, than a weekend at home.

The South is where Bali comes to play. With rapid development and a heavy influx of tourists, comes the amenities to cater to them. From the big hotels and high end shopping to the world class restaurants and night clubs to the beaches, water sports and tourists attractions, South Bali has become this island's playground.

For these reasons, South Bali has most people coming to the island in search of retreating, running for the hills and which is also why South Bali doesn't have a lot of retreat venues as compared to other areas of the island. But don't discount South Bali as a possible retreat destination.

South Bali is not just about vacation revelling. The few retreat centres that we have discovered in the South are perfectly conducive to leading a retreat. Here's my fact list for South Bali and I'll leave it up to you to decide if South Bali is right for your retreat.

THINGS TO CONSIDER IN SOUTH BALI

South Bali offers close proximity to shopping, medical services, bank machines, as well as a wide range of activities and water sports. Convenient location and access to amenities is a bonus if this is important for you and your participants.

If your participants are coming from Europe or North America, getting off a plane they've just spent 8 or more hours travelling in, only to arrive and have to get into a bus for another three hours, may not be their idea of a good time. With only a 15 to 30 minute drive from the airport to most southern destinations, your retreat participants will arrive more refreshed and relaxed.

Depending on what kind of retreat you are leading and the demographics of your participants, the few South Bali retreat venues we have found vary from a secluded and totally private cliff-top sanctuary with its own private beach cove to a venue located right on a popular surf beach, immersed in the island beach culture of the free spirited.

IN THE MOUNTAINS

 
A world away from the hectic south, the mountains rise up to 1,700 m above sea level, giving it cooler and less humid weather than the lowlands of the island. A dream-like retreat destination, tucked away within the velvet green rice terraces, fruit, coffee, clove and cacao plantations and traditional villages, the mountain region of Bali is a haven for peace and introspection.

If you are looking to really get away from it all, the mountain regions of Bali should definitely be a consideration for you.

THINGS TO CONSIDER ABOUT THE BALI MOUNTAINS

Being away from it all may be just what you're looking for, but just remember, if you choose a mountain venue, you really are away from it all. Not just the shopping plazas, night clubs and busy tourist areas, but also ATMs, hospitals and pretty much everything else. If you choose a mountain venue, it's important to prepare your participants about what to expect because they won't be able to wander into town to buy souvenirs or go to a cafe on their free time because there aren't any. On the other hand, they will be able to leave the venue, go on hikes, explore the village and surrounding area unencumbered by people chasing them down asking them to buy a sarong or to 'come into my shop'
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One of the nice things about the mountains of Bali is that the people in the mountains, apart from the ones who work at the few hotels, don't make their living from tourism. The mountains of Bali are home to primarily communities that farm everything from rice, clove and coffee, to cacao, vanilla, fruits and vegetables. This also means that when you meet people, the experience seems a lot more genuine.

The mountains have their own weather, which can be totally different from the rest of the island. I never thought I''d be wearing socks and a scarf in Bali, but i have, while visiting family in the mountains. It can get cold, especially during the rainy season at night and early morning. In fact it's pretty wet and drizzly and foggy during the rainy season as well. I would recommend April to September as better months for retreats in the mountains.

When you are planning your retreat in the mountains, choose a vegetarian or non-vegetarian menu and stick with that. The venues up here will not be able to cater to new age diet trends. Agave what? Not only are certain food items and ingredients not available in this area, the kitchen staff will be from the surrounding area and are not trained in nutrition, so there is no way they are going to be able to feed you properly if you are requesting a vegan, no soy, glutten-free menu. Believe me when I tell you that everyone seems to know how to cook, but where you're going to run into trouble is trying to get them to cook food they don't eat and are not sure what it is supposed to even taste like. I've ordered tomato soup in remote areas which was clear consume with a half tomato floating in it. I've had roti canai with sugar on it. If you order cheese cake, you may very well receive a piece of cake with grated cheese on top. I always tell people that the food is part of the experience. Better to go local and you will have a much more positive experience. 

Being off the beaten track also means the places of interests in the area are not often visited by tourists, so you'll often get a waterfall or a temple all to yourselves when you go to visit.

NORTH BALI



North Bali is dotted with idyllic, quiet seaside villages that offer the serenity of a true retreat destination. Far from the tourist hustle and bustle, the beaches of North Bali, that range from white to volcanic black sand, are home to some of the best fishing, diving and snorkeling spots on the island. From secret waterfalls to the oldest temples, this little explored part of the island offers some fantastic hidden gems not written about in any guide books.

THINGS TO CONSIDER ABOUT NORTH BALI

Much like the mountains, north Bali is pretty much off the beaten track. Access to amenities is sparse. The closest hospital and ATMs are in Singaraja, an hour away.

And also much like the Bali mountains, the meeting with the local Balinese is a much more genuine experience as fishing and farming are the primary industries, not tourism. If someone talks to you, it's because they want to talk to you, not because they're trying to sell you something.

The Balinese processions and ceremonies that you may see while you're here are happening for a reason, not for the tourists. Not only do you get to witness and guests are often invited to take part (depending on what's going on), you are doing so with the Balinese, not other tourists. So again a retreat in North Bali has the advantage of feeling like a much more authentic Balinese experience.

If you venture out of your venue, you never have to worry about your personal safety or security of your belongings. In the South, it's different. In South Bali, and now Ubud, there is a large transient population of Balinese from other villages and Indonesians from other parts of the country coming to the 'Big City' to find work, which leaves these areas with a rather disjointed population with no real ties to the community. Whereas North Bali is made up of very close knit communities. Everyone knows everyone and looks after each other. A small village also means everyone knows what everyone else does, just like a small village anywhere else.  No one is going to do anything that would make them look bad or lose face to their family and neighbours.

The info regarding retreat menus is pretty much the same for North Bali as it is for the Mountain retreats. Non-veg, vegetarian and vegan (sometimes) diets can be accommodated, but don't try to get too fancy because you are not going to get what you expected.   The choice of ingredients is not the same as it is in the South or in Ubud.

North Bali is fantastic for excursions. There are loads of things to see and do that are not offered by the million other retreats going on in Ubud. If you are looking to set your retreat apart from the others, integrating unique North Bali experiences  that complement your workshops is a great way to do that.

A few notes about East and West Bali...

Despite the over-development in Southern Bali, the natural beauty this island has been renowned for remains largely intact in East Bali. The eastern part of the island boasts some of the most beautiful scenery in Bali and its fertile, volcanic soils make farming one of the main industries in the area. East Bali is also home to Besakih Temple. This most holy of Balinese temples is known as the island’s Mother Temple, located on the slopes of Mount Agung, Bali's most sacred volcanic mountain. The spectacular Mt. Agung towers more than 3,000 m and makes for a spectacular backdrop over East Bali. Few eastern villages encounter large numbers of tourists, and may be ideal for those looking for a true retreat destination, away from the tourist crowds. Though is a spectacular area, most of the resorts on the beach are high end, and very few with retreat facilities. But there are a couple of venues that we will be going to check out, but until we do our site inspections, I don't really want to be promoting an area for retreats if I am not even sure it has appropriate venues.

Most of West Bali is home to the national Park that covers 190 square kilometres. There aren't many venues out that way that I've been able to find, so as with East Bali, I don't really want to comment on a location that I'm not even sure is able to accommodate retreats.

As always, I welcome comments and  topic suggestions.

And now for the shameless plug....

If you are looking to run a retreat in Bali, connect with us at Bali Biu Retreat Company at info@balibiuretreatcompany.com or come and visit our website at www.balibiuretreatcompany.com and let us help you create the ultimate Bali retreat experience. Feel free to send me a Facebook message as well if you have any questions.

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

BALI BELLY


Now we've all heard the term, but what is it exactly and how did Bali get lucky enough to have a tropical illness named after it?

'Bali  Belly' is not any particular illness as such. It's pretty much the blanket term used for any type of stomach upset experiened by anyone having been in Bali, with symptoms ranging from diarrhoea and abdominal cramps to vomitting and fever. This  affliction is not limited to Bali and goes by many names: Montezuma's revenge, Dehli Belly, Rangoon Runs and traveller's diarrhoea, to name a few. But what causes Bali Belly? Any number of factors can be attributed these symptoms:


Bacteria – Escherichia coli (E. coli), primarily enterotoxigenic strains (ETEC). This is one of the most common bacterial causes of traveller’s diarrhoea. Other bacterial causes of traveller’s diarrhoea include Campylobacter jejuni, Salmonella and Shigella. These infections are usually associated with severe abdominal pains and fever;

Parasites – certain parasitic infections are known to cause diarrhoea, including Giardia intestinalis, Entamoeba histolytica and Cryptosporidium parvum. In these cases, the illness lasts longer than a few days and the stools may be bloody;

Viruses – some estimates suggest that around one in three cases of traveller’s diarrhoea is caused by or associated with a viral infection, particularly norovirus and rotavirus;
 
Unknown causes – a cause can't be found in approximately one-fifth to half of all cases of traveller’s diarrhoea. It is thought that diarrhoea may be the gastrointestinal system's response to unfamiliar micro-organisms or simply a change of diet. 

A change of diet can affect the digestive system and consistency of bowel movements. Chances are you will be eating a lot of different things your not used to eating, which may include lots of fresh fruit and food that is more spicy than you are used to.

You're probably not going to want to spend your time in Bali confined to a hotel room because you have to make a mad dash to the toilet every ten minutes, so how do you prevent yourself from getting sick while you're here?

I've read many a blog and traveller info website that tell you to stay away from eating pretty much everything from raw fruits and vegetables to seafood and market stall food. Experiencing the local gastronomic delights is part of the travel experience and if you are not going to venture to try anything new for fear of getting sick, then you might as well save yourself the plane fare, stay home, order a pizza and watch Discovery Channel instead. 


There are some things, however that you can do to minimize the chance of getting sick. these are my personal tips:

1. Though it's advised to stay away from salads and strange fruits and vegetables, I say knock yourself out - just be careful not to go overboard and any one particular type of fruit or food that you're not used to eating in abundance. Papaya and young coconut water, for example are natural laxatives. Guava and not drinking enough water on the other hand, can make you constipated. Which brings us to my next tip...

2. Make sure you are drinking lots of water and make sure it's bottled water. That having been said, it would be also better for you to bring a refillable water bottle than getting a plastic bottle every time you are thirsty. A lot of places have free water refills if you bring your own bottle. Water from the tap in Bali is not treated, so you never know what's in there. There's lots of talk about not ordering ice in your drink, but if you are in even a half decent restaurant or hotel, the ice will either be made of bottled or boiled water. If you are in a more local establishment and you are unsure, ask! I have been to places where I'd talked to people who believed that simply freezing the tap water will kill bacteria. It's one of those misconceptions of some of the Balinese that has arisen due to the fact that the Balinese don't usually put ice in their drinks as it's believed that it will result in 'masuk angin'. Check out my blog musings of a balinese princess entry about 'masuk angin'.

3. Even if you are at home, you want to make sure your meat is cooked through. Sushi and steak tartare is not traditional Balinese fare, so best stick to the cooked meat. If your chicken looks a little pink, don't risk it and send it back to be cooked longer.
 
4. Ideally you are going to want to steer clear of dairy, especially things like mayonnaise. Your best bet is to be eating food that is usually eaten here. The Balinese know how to cook and keep local food properly. After all, if it makes you sick, it will make them sick, too. But where you'll run into problems is getting 'foreign' food cooked by someone who never eats it, so it may not be cooked or stored properly or may be kept past its expiry and that's when you'll run into trouble.
 
5. Market stalls and street vendors are said to be, according to all the info I've read out there, ground zero for Bali Belly. Food is really part of the experience and chances are, if you are eating in a restaurant the whole time you are in Bali, even the Balinese dishes you order are being cooked and altered to cater to western tourists, so you really are not eating real Balinese food. If you eat food in the market that is cooked in front of you, then there's less of a chance of you getting sick. However, a lot of the food in market stalls or the local 'warung' is prepared before hand and on display in the stall window for you to pick and choose. Whether or not you should venture to try it will really depend on how adventurous your normal eating habits are. Do you travel a lot and regularly eat local food in developing countries? If yes, then go for it. If not, you may want to give it a pass. Now remember, the Balinese are not immune to food poisoning, so you can be sure that you are unlikely to get that at the local vendor, but it's more of a case of exposure to micro-organisms, the effects of which the Balinese are much more resistant to from living here in conditions which are probably a bit different than where you're from. This brings us to my last tip.... 

6. Eat a handful of dirt every once in a while. One of the main reasons westerners are so quick to get an upset stomach and gastrointestinal issues, is due to living in the land of anti-bacterial and disinfectant everything, which has left the average westerner unaccustomed to any micro organism even remotely foreign. As their bodies have never been given the chance to build up an immunity, first contact has them rushing to the toilet, making up catchy names for something that they blame on Bali.  
  
Disclaimer: as you may have guessed I am no doctor, so take this info as my personal observations, opinions and suggestions based on having lived in Bali for 7 years and North Sumatera for 4 years. I now possess the stomach of steel, can eat anything, anywhere and I like my food spicy, cause that's just how I roll.